Frequently Asked Questions D.R. Middlebrooks gets about his Glock Modifications...

Q: What is STIP-TEX?           

A: It's a combination of BOTH Stippling & Texturing.

 

Q: WHAT kind of tip do you use on the soldering iron?           

A: IT'S A five step process using a variety of tips.

 

Q: Would you mind showing me a picture of them?          

A: yes i would. Mainly because it took me years of r&d to figure this all out (and i ruined a few frames in the process). it cost me a lot of time and money, so i don't want to give my secrets away for free.

 

Q: Why do you refuse to lighten Carry Gun slides?             

A: I'VE SEEN too many crack. heck, I've seen even (uncut) FACTORY GLOCK SLIDES CRACK.

Notice the vertical line just forward of the serial number. It's cracked ALL the way through. This slide has fired nothing but FACTORY AMMO as the owner doesn't reload.

Notice the vertical line just forward of the serial number. It's cracked ALL the way through. This slide has fired nothing but FACTORY AMMO as the owner doesn't reload.

so, Lightening the slide is inviting failure. failure is not an option on a carry gun.

 

Q: well why do the competition shooters do it?           

A: we use "recoil compensators" on match race guns. but it slows the slide down. so, to get the cyclic rate back up, WE LIGHTEN THE SLIDEs.

 

Q: What about the "non-compensated" match guns?

A: When they're set up to shoot very light (minor) loads, we lighten the slides to get the cyclic rate back up. however...

with "non-compensated" Full power (MAJOR) loads, they need a heavier slide. simply because Heavier guns kick less.

bottom line: I prefer to keep the weight in the slide where it belongs, especially for self defense loads.

 

Q: Why don't you like the front strap finger hump/bumps on glocks?

a: they either fit you or they don't. but it's not about what I like, it's about what you like. 

but i do think they should be left smooth. when textured during a speed draw the fingers can hang up on the "speed bumps" (that's what i call them, because they slow you down). 

but when left smooth, your fingers slide right into place on the draw. The stip-tex panel fill job is for those who want to keep the bumps, and looks really good, too.

 

Q: WHY DON'T YOU LIKE to "high wrap" texture up under the beavertail area?

A: again, it's about what you like. that's why I offer a STIP-TEx high-wrap for those who want it. but me personally, i want the web of my drawing hand to slide over the beavertail and then slide down under the curved area of the beavertail. this is why i prefer the low-wrap look on the backstrap. but that's just me.

fwiw: i've never had anyone request checkering or grip tape be put on the curved area of a 1911 beavertail. it's just faster to aquire the grip when the curved beavertail isleft smooth. but it's your call, it's about what you like best. 

 

Q: is there anything you won't do on a gun?

A: RELIABILITY IS JOB #1 WITH ME. so, I won't do anything that will adversely effect the reliability of a weapon.  I won't use inferior parts. i refuse to do stupid things (that may get you killed) to a defensive handgun.  

 

Q: are you dogmatic about any gun mods in particular? 

a: i try to keep an open mind. i try my very best to give my clients what they want. but sometimes what they want, is not what they really need. 

and sometimes the things they want done to the gun, just don't look good. and when i do ugly things to a gun, it always comes back to haunt me. it's not good advertisement for me.

 

Q: do you mind customers asking you questions?

a: no, not at all. after 30 years of building custom guns, i have aquired a wealth of knowledge. i don't know everything, but i know a lot of things, especially what things not to do.

but don't ever be afraid to ask me something, anything. i have a ton of experience and i only want the best for my clients. I'll tell them what i think, i'll explain my reasoning to them, and let them decide. but i still reserve the right to "just say no" sometimes.